书城旅游地图心灵的驿站
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第23章 游美札记(7)

After calling at one or two flat places,with low dams stretching outinto the lake,whereon were stumpy light—houses,like windmills withoutsails,the whole looking like a Dutch vignette,we came at midnight toCleveland,where we lay all night,and until nine 0’clock next morning. I entertained quite a curiosity in reference to this place,from havingseen at Sandusky a specimen of its literature in the shape of a newspaper,which was very strong indeed upon the subject of Lord Ashburton’Srecent arrival at Washington,to adjust the points in dispute between theUnited States Government and Great Britain;informing its readers thatas America had“whipped”England in her infancy,and whipped heragain in her youth,SO it was clearly necessary that she must whip heronce again in her maturity;and pledging its credit to all true Americans,that if Mr.Webster did his duty in the approaching negotiations,and sentthe English lord home again in double quick time,they should,withintwo years,sing,“Yankee Doodle in Hyde Park.and Hail Columbia inthe scarlet courts of Westminster!”I found it a pretty town,and hadthe satisfaction of beholding the outside of the office of the journal fromwhich I have just quoted.I did not enjoy the delight of seeing the wit whoindited the paragraph in question,but I have no doubt he is a prodigiousman in his way,and held in high repute by a select circle. There was a gentleman on board,to whom,as I unintentionallylearned through the thin partition which divided our stateroom from thecabin in which he and his wife conversed together,1 was unwittingly theoccasion of very great uneasiness.I don’t know why or wherefore,but I appeared to run in his mind perpetually,and to dissatisfy him very much.First of all I hear him say—and the most ludicrous part of the business was,that he said it in my very ear,and could not have communicated more directly with me,if he leaned upon my shoulder,and whispered me“Boz is on board still.my dear.”After a considerable pause,he added complainingly,“Boz keeps himself very close”;which was true enough,for 1 was not very well,and was lying down,with a book.I thought he had done with me after this,but 1 was deceived;for a long interval having elapsed,during which I imagine him to have been turning restlessly from side to side,and trying to go to sleep;he broke out again,with,“I suppose that Boz will be writing a book by and by,and putting all oHr names in it!”at which imaginary consequence of being on board a boat with Boz,he groaned,and became silent.

We called at the town of Erie,at eight O’clock that night,and lay there an hour.Between five and six next morning,we arrived at Buffalo,where we breakfasted;and being too near the great falls to wait patiently anywhere else,we set Off by the train,the same morning at nine O’clock,to Niagara.

It was a miserable day,chilly and raw;a damp mist falling,and the trees in that northern region quite bare and wintry.Whenever the train halted,I listened for the roar;and was constantly straining my eyes in the direction where I knew the falls must be,from seeing the river rolling on towards them;every moment expecting to behold the spray.Within a few minutes of our stopping,not before,I saw two great white clouds rising up slowly and majestically from the depths of he earth.That was a11.At length we alighted;and then for the first time,I heard the mighty rush of water,and felt the ground tremble underneath my feet.

The bank is very steep,and was slippery with rain and half-melted ice.I hardly know how I got down,but 1 was soon at the bottom,andclimbing,with two English officers who were crossing and had joinedme,over some broken rocks,deafened by the noise,half blinded by thespray,and wet tO the skin.We were at the foot of the American Fall.Icould see an immense torrent of water tearing headlong down from somegreat height,but had no idea of shape,or situation,or anything but vagueimmensity. When we were seated in the little ferry boat,and were crossing theswollen river immediately before both cataracts,I began to feel whatit was;but 1 was in a manner stunned,and unable to comprehend thevastness of the scene.It was not until I came on Table Rock,and looked—great Heaven,on what a fall of bright—green water!That it came upon mein its full might and majesty. Then,when I felt how near to my Creator 1 was standing,the firsteffect,and the enduring one--instant and lasting--of the tremendousspectacle,was Peace.Peace of mind,tranquility,calm recollections of thedead,great thoughts of etemal rest and happiness:nothing of gloom orterror.Niagara was at once stamped upon my heart,an image of beauty;to remain there,changeless and indelible,until its pulses cease to beat,foreVer. Oh,how the strife and trouble of daily life receded from my view,and lessened in the distance,during the ten memorable days we passed onthat enchanted ground!What voices spoke from out the thundering water;what faces,faded from the earth,looked out upon me from its gleamingdepths;what heavenly promise glistened in those angels’tears,thedrops of many hues,that showered around,and twined themselves aboutthe gorgeous arches which the changing r~nbows made!