1.One afternoon in May，I had paddled a few milesup a sluggishFloridariver，in an almost uninhabitedpart of the country.As evening fell，I returned in the canoe，floating with the current.The woods were full of perfume，and I drifted idly along，drinking in the balmy breath of the pines and the fragrance of the lilies and other flowers which grew on every side.
2.The gentle hum of insects filled the air，and softened the shrill voices of the frogs among the reeds，while now and then trills of exquisitebell-like notesrang out from the throats of mocking-birds.Myriadsof fire-flies flashed and faded in the thick undergrowth.Presently the moon sent her pale light through the thick foliage of the trees，and the misty vapour over the river shone with a faint silvery sheen.Enchanted with the beauty of the night，I let the current drift me slowly onward，though the damp air warned me tohasten my return.
3.As I entered a wide lagoo surrounded by a rank growth of marshy plants，I found the air filled with a musky odour.I knew by experience that it was the odour given out by the alligator.Soon I heard that sharp clacking noise which these creatures are fond of making with their huge jaws；and presently I saw a large alligator not fifteen feet away on my right，close to the bank of the river.In the bright moonlight，and in that clear water，the long body of the creature shone grayish-green.Every mark on it was distinct.Right ahead I saw another，and there was still another to my left；and farther on，in the shadow of the reeds，lay one，two，three big ones and several small ones.In front，the waters swarmed with them.
4.Drifting like a log with the stream，the canoe did not attract their attention.It was necessary to steer very carefully，however，in order to escape a collision with them，as one of them might return the blowwith a snap of his formidablejaws.In spite of all myprecautions，while passing under the shadow of somegreat trees，I ran straight upon the back of a large female alligator without seeing her.She did not move；and as the canoe grated against her side in passingon，her eyes glared into mine so near that I could have touched them with my fingers.I cocked my rifle，but the great creature made no effort to attack me.Then I saw about twenty little alligators regain their places on her back and head，from which my canoe had thrown them.
5.Now and then an alligator would lash the water furiously with its powerful tail，and utter a strange sighing bellow.One after another all those within hearing would join in，making the waters foam and gleam，and raising a deafening noise with their hoarse cries and snapping jaws.I did not relish the thought that a slap of some powerful tail might knock me into the water；so I went ashore，and climbed up an oak which overhung the river.
6.The North American alligators do not attack man，and I had never heard of any one being injured by them in Florida；but I did not care to risk being thrown into the water among them.The Florida waters teem with fish，which furnish the alligators with all the food they need；but I once saw a small hog，which was feeding on the river-bank，seized and borne off shrieking andstruggling in the jaws of an alligator.
7.Sitting on a convenient branch，I watched the alligators for an hour or so.The smaller ones gam-bolled and frolicked like kittens，chasing one another over the backs of the older ones，and tumbling aboutwith the liveliest and most graceful movements.Some-times a large one would sweep a tribe of small fellows off his back，and pursue them to the bottom of the river.Returning with one in his jaws，he would let it go and catch it again，playing with it some time before allowing it to escape.
8.After the frolicking company went out of sight，I followed them in the canoe，and soon overtook them.Paddling quickly，I dashed through the startled throng.They dived in great alarm under the water，and forsome time I could trace them by the phosphorescentgleam they made in their headlong rush.I passed herdafter herd as I made for the mouth of the river.Their not unpleasant musky odour was wafted to where our schooner lay moored，half a mile out at sea；and now and then，high above the wash of the waves on the low，sandy shore，rose that low，hoarse bellowing，as their curious voices blended in a chorus of strange sounds.