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第279章 THE LAND OF THE WHITE ELEPHANT

1.Fifty years ago,we knew very little of the kingdom of Siam,beyond the fact that the people worshipped white elephants.But English civilization made its way through India to Burmah,and opened the closely-sealed ports of Siam and Cochin China.The late King of Siam chose an Englishman for one of his counsellors.The new king has not only opened his kingdom for English education,but is encouraging the schools by royal gifts and favour.

2.Siam has not the tropical heat of India.The climate is delicious.The Bay of Bengal on the one side,and the Gulf of Siam on the other,keep this kingdom refreshed with sea-breezes.Bangkok,the capital,built out into the river Nenam,is called the “Venice of the East.”Indeed,it is even more of a water city than the “Queen of the Adriatic;”for while Venice has its foundations on solid ground,Bangkok actually floats on the water.Huge bamboo rafts are constructed,and on these houses,shops,and even gardens are built.

3.We chanced to arrive at Bangkok on a feast-day.It was evening when we came round a bend in the river and caught sight of the floating city.A marvellouspanorama,an illuminated world,seemed spread outbefore us.Thousands of fire-globes shed their brilliant light over the broad bosom of the water;and on either side,as far as the eye could reach,there was an endless succession of lights of every imaginable colour and shape,forming an illumination such as only Easterningenuitycan devise.

4.Every house was decorated with lanterns;the yards and masts of every ship-even the tiniest boat-sparkled with brilliant coloured fire;while the moredistant pagodasand palaces were a blaze of glory.

It was the great annual festival of Siam,the Feast of Lanterns;and had we arrived one day later we should have missed this fairy-land spectacle.

5.The temples,of which there are one hundred,are built on the river-bank.Here also stand the king’spalaces,the houses of the foreign consuls,and theresidences of the nobility.During last century the capital of Siam stood on the river-bank some distance above the position of the present capital;but the annual overflow of the river caused such a deposit of mud that the place became very unhealthy,and a new town was built farther down the river.

6.The floating houses have no communication with each other by land;all travelling is done by boat.Almost every conceivable commodity is borne in theselittle boats-rice,fish,fruit,and flowers-and everysort of handicraftis carried on in them.Here you maysee a Chinaman manufacturing rich soup over a hissing kettle,and delivering it to his customers;another person is baking bread;another,under a gaily-striped awning,is weaving gold thread into embroidery,while a mite of a child manages the little boat.The scenes in the water streets are always new and interesting.

7.The religion of Siam is a form of Buddhism.Thereverence with which the Siamese regard the white elephant is not difficult to understand,when we remember that the white elephants are supposed to be the abodes of the souls of their dead kings.One of the most splendid temples near the city is set apart for the royal white elephant.It stands in a garden of palms,and at the time of my visit to it,a dozen priests,dressed in yellow robes,were in attendance on the great white animal.He stood lazily waving his trunk,and helping himself to leaves and branches from the heaps placed before him.

8.His room was lofty;the floor was covered with a mat of pure,chased gold,each interwoven plait being about half an inch broad.On this costly carpet the unwieldy animal stood and stamped his great feet,with no more care for its magnificence than if it had been his native turf.Several priests were constantly engaged in cleaning the floor and in piling up fresh herbage for his majesty to feast on.Gold-smiths were taking theworn strips out of the golden carpet,and replacingthem with new,shining ones.

9.The man who was so fortunate as to entrap thissacred animal was rewarded with a hereditarypension,and was raised to a very high office in the kingdom-that of water-carrier to the elephant.The jars in which the water is carried,and the trough from which the sacred animal drinks,are of pure gold.